Powder Skiing for the Young at Heart

About 8 years ago, I got a call from the daughter anSnowcat rides are rarely more than 15 to 20 minutes
old friend.long, usually just long enough to enjoy half a
“It’s Dad’s 60th birthday soon andsandwich and a drink, to rest the legs and to share a
the family wants to send him on a ski trip. We arecouple of bad jokes with our companions. The
hoping that you and Bill and Owen will keep himBombardier snowcats ( are warm and comfortable.
company”.They accommodate 12 guests, two guides and a
“Sure”, I said, expecting a destination like Sundriver. The three cats move independently and are
Peaks or Rossland.usually out of sight of one another all day.
“Where are we going?”When skiing, the guide keeps the group together,
“Cat Skiing near Fernie.”while allowing everyone their own line in unbroken
“What skiing?”snow. There’s no pressure to “farm”
“Cat skiing!”snow.
“What’s Cat Skiing?”The speed of the group and number of stops
“Its backcountry skiing from snowcats, sort of adepends on the group. Faster groups of expert
poor man’s heli-skiing.”skiers may ski non-stop to the bottom. Groups of
“Can I afford it?”intermediate skiers may stop along the way, to
“You can’t afford to miss this!”regroup, rest, share experiences and take pictures.
That four-day trip was the start of seven years ofCat skiing is laid back and relaxed. The guests “call
superb skiing. On that first trip, we had a marvelousthe shots” and determine the pace. The guides
time and powder skiing, the likes of which none of usconcentrate on the preferences and needs of the
could remember. Run after run in fresh, untrackedgroup and provide a “tailor made” skiing
snow. There were steep rollovers that put my heartexperience.
in my throat, where the deep snow seemed toA favorite with many skiers is the tree skiing on the
support us like an invisible hand, letting us down thegreat ridges. A group can ski for many days on any
fall line slowly and gently. Wow! Face shots galore! Ione ridge and not run out of fresh snow. Runs pass
thought, “Life is too short not to be doing thisthrough old burns with widely spaced snags, living
every year!”forest with open glades and cut blocks with deeply
On the second day of that tour, I presented myselfburied stumps that form “pillows” and
at the lodge office and requested a booking for theundulations of endless variety.
following year.Intermediate skiers who rarely ski “the trees”
“Sorry, full up”.not only find they can do it, but that it’s fun.
“No!”The snow in the trees tends to be deeper and
“Yes!” “However, the year after has anunaffected by sun and wind. Snow is soft and
opening, and you could have a whole cat.”consistent and there are no moguls and lumps. The
“Done”, I said, and thought, “You fool, whatshort, fat powder skis that can be rented from
are you doing?”Chatter Creek make it all pretty easy. Novices learn
After much effort, evening after evening of phonevery quickly. Cat skiing does not require prior
calls, hounding old friends and a very long wait, weexperience or special equipment, just boots and
were back two years later with twelve good menclothing and enthusiasm.
and women. Some were old ski friends of almost 50Cat skiing at Chatter Creek is well suited for skiers
years. We had another wonderful trip with greatand snowboarders having a wide range of ability. My
skiing, great snow and great company.group of expert skiers has enjoyed every trip and is
Now, years later, we are still at it. We’vealways challenged and experiencing new terrain.
changed venue from near Fernie to a spot nearChatter Creek recommends that guests be at least
Golden, B.C., where the skiing is a little higher and thestrong intermediate skiers. However, I have
snow seems to be a little more reliable. Our host isorganized “friends and family” groups that have
Chatter Creek Snowcat Skiing ( a partnership of fourincluded skiers of lesser ability and everyone got on
personable young men who run an excellentfine. Good physical condition makes up for a lack of
operation, about 20 minutes by helicopter north ofexperience. Ages have ranged from the 20’s
Golden, on the western flank of the Rockyto 70, with most group members in the 50 to 65
Mountains.year range.
The 130 sq. km. tenure includes a large glacier at justAs the ski-day wears on and people may begin to
under 10,000ft. elevation, huge open alpine slopes andtire, guests are welcome to sit-out a run and ride
bowls and a number of enormous ridges that offerback down the hill with the snowcat driver. If
superb tree skiing. After many trips to Chattersomeone wants to “call it a day”, a staff
Creek, we have yet to ski the entire area. Eachmember will drive the guest back to the lodge on a
summer, snowcat roads are extended to open upsnowmobile.
ever more terrain. An application has been made toRuns can vary from about 800 vertical feet to over
increase the terrain size by about 85%. See Cat2000 ft. Typical runs drop 1200 to 1500 ft. The
Skiing Terrain ( for a photographic tour of theamount of skiing done in a day depends entirely on
Chatter Creek tenure.the strength of the group. Daily “vertical” usually
Skiing on the Vertebrae glacier is “mellow” andvaries from 9,000 to 14,000 feet. Very fast groups
the views are spectacular. From the highest point,may do 16,000 ft, or even more. Our group has
the view spreads to the west, over nearby peaksalways worn itself out, day after day.
and ridges to the distant Adamant Range and SelkirkThe perfect end to a day at Chatter Creek is a run
Mountains. To the east, much nearer and in clearon Lodge Ridge, ending at the door of Vertebrae
view, are countless peaks and snowfields of theLodge. ( We step out of our skis and boards and into
Continental Divide, including the Clemenceau Icefield,the bar, dropping into soft couches, with cold beers
Mt Columbia and the Snow Dome. The latter is thein hand. After some laughs with our mates and
source of the famous Columbia Icefield and containsbrowsing on the afternoon snacks, we stumble off
the hydrographic apex of North America. As skiersto the outdoor hot tub to enjoy another beer or a
ski on the glacier, the unusual “squiggles” of theCaesar and to watch the sunlight disappear from the
Sullivan Fault fill the view and forms the backdrop ofpeaks.
many a guest photograph. See Glacier Skiing atIn 2004, Chatter Creek built a second 9000 sq. ft
Chatter Creek ( for many photos from thelodge and expanded to 36 clients. All guests enjoy
Vertebrae glacier.double occupancy bedrooms, each with a private
On bluebird days, the guides usually head to the highbathroom. Our group has expanded to fill the lodge
alpine for a few runs on the Vertebrae glacier, or inand we have 36 enthusiastic skiers and
one of the many large bowls or slopes such as thesnowboarders all signed up and waiting patiently for
Clamshell, upper Lodge Ridge, Super Spruce, Southnext year. Some of the old-boys are now taking
Park, Lakeview , and Oyster Bowl. After a few ofalong their grown offspring, and one cat is set aside
runs, the group will move on to nearby areas, skiingfor two entire families. It’s going to be a
here and there on the way, never staying long in anygreat party, with great skiing!
one spot. Every run in untracked snow!