A Day in Whistler, BC

"body">powder, which he can effortlessly modulate to stay
The snow is falling furiously outside my window whenjust ahead of me, are almost as good a guide as
I am woken by telephone ringing at 0710. Ibright sunshine and some nearby trees for definition.
remember that I asked to be called early if it wasNeedless to say, my thighs are burning and my
snowing, and Stefan, my hunky Austrian instructor isgoggles (c. 1991) are fogged up from the sweat of
at the other end of the line. "I'll see you at themy brow. Naturally, Stefan's Oakley goggles (c. 2005)
bottom of the Creekside gondola in 20 minutes", heare crystal clear, since this is not even a mild workout
says. "Can you really make it that quickly?". Hefor him.
doesn't realize that I am staying at one of HolidayWe are among the first onto the Peak Chair, whence
Whistler's ski-in, ski-out homes in Taluswood, aoriginate some of Whistler's best and least know
spectacular development of ski lodge homes on thepowder runs. Our first run is Christmas Trees, which
lower slopes of Whistler Mountain. All I have to do isstarts parallel to the Peak Chair but then angles off
pull my ski clothes on, ease into my boots, grab myto the left down a ridge of trees more or less parallel
skis and poles, press the button that opens theto Big Red. There are many routes through these
garage door and walk the 10 yards to the ski-outtrees but you have to know them as there are also
trail. A minute later I am at the bottom of themany traps for the unwary. Luckily Stefan can ski his
gondola. In fact - and to his astonishment - I am hereway through these trees blindfold. We do this run a
before Stefan. It is only 7.24. We have agreed tocouple of times and try some of the double black
meet early to take advantage of the conditions. Wediamond runs off the Harmony Ridge - so much
have our 'Fresh Tracks' tickets, which entitle us tosnow has fallen that even though I fall down after
catch the first lift up and breakfast at theevery jump my landing is soft as, well as Whistler
Roundhouse. Whistler skiers know that when thepowder.
snow is falling heavily in the Village it is really falling atAfter a full day with Stefan I ski back to my front
the top - after all, it's over a vertical mile higher - anddoor - literally - peel off my clothes and sink into the
that if they want to find some untracked snowhot tub, which is nestled in the woods at the back of
without a hour's hike they'd better be first up thethe townhome. I have taken the precaution of
mountain, which means 'Fresh Tracks'.booking a masseuse; after the powerful jets have
Stefan has moved to Whistler from Kitzbuhel. He hasdone their work she starts hers An hour later her
transferred from the legendary Rote Teufel - thepowerful fingers have done the trick and I am feeling
Red Devils of the Kitzbuhel Skischool - to the equallyimmensely relaxed and deeply somnolent. I worry -
legendary Whistler-Blackcomb Ski School. After wewell I worry a little - about whether a stiff cocktail
have eaten our fill at the Roundhouse (which is notwill knock me out or revive me for the evening's
round at all, but apparently it once was) the all clear isactivities, but as the ice-cold Martini is absorbed into
sounded and we rush out onto the slopes. It is stillmy blood stream I find myself quite ready for an
snowing like hell, but following Stefan makes thisevening's dining at one of Whistler's legendary
somewhat easier: he knows every mogul on therestaurants. Another great day in Whistler.
mountain and his smooth rhythms through the